SOME SAY IT'S NOT THE SIZE OF YOUR PEN THAT MATTERS, but the quality of your penmanship. This may be true about getting down things on paper, but certainly doesn't translate to getting down or going up...
... on a mountain bike, at night.
Nope, at night on a mountain bike a bigger light makes up for all kinds of deficiencies. And, if you're really pro about it you'll have two lights.
One on your head.
One on your bike.
Now, a lot of folks get this all bassakwards, so let me 'splain it to ya.
Shadows are everything with night riding. It's the shadows that give you depth perception. No shadows and that big rock is going to look flat... and you'll soon be flat on your back if you're not careful.
Here's the set up you want.
A very, very powerful flood light on your bike.
The beam should be aimed far down the trail. Done correctly, you'll get a ton of shadows. You need those to give your brain a chance to register the terrain ahead.
A low power spot light on your head.
This low power light will help you see ahead of you handlebars. Unless you're going straight ahead your bars are trailing your vision. Examples would be turns and dropoffs. In daylight you're eyes are scanning far ahead of where your bars actually pointed. At night, this low power light will be lighting up where you're planning to go but not be so bright as to wash out the shadows created by the much more powerful flood light on your bike.
If you have to choose one light, get the powerful floodlight on your bike.
This combo is the only reason I was even close to MSmith tonight. The flood light is so amazingly powerful, even on the low setting you'll get lots of shadows.
This little feller is light as a feather, and the perfect spot light for peaking around corners or over dropoffs.
If you're secret Santa needs a big fat hint, share this post...
... and share this promo code: GOTTALIGHT
It's a buy 1, save 25% on the 2nd light... and free shipping.
Pull Ups/Push Ups
7ish hrs sleep